Post by Admin on Feb 6, 2014 15:31:11 GMT
Firstly, lay your new cover the roof frame (roof in the closed position) and you will see the piping that needs to be fed along the silver rear frame, spray WD40 along the channel and start feeding and pull slowly.
Once you get past the second corner of the frame it should just pull the last few inch freely. But the begin is slow going.
Then unlock the hood from the windscreen frame and pull the front of the hood over the edge and push in the corner sewn into to the cover and refit the metal strip making sure it clamps the nylon strip on the cover.
You should now have the cover fully fitted at each end like this.
At this point I lifted my hood frame off my old Mk3 shell and placed it in my Mk3.5 project. Next job is to locate the centre stud in the parcel shelf that the silver frame uses to position itself when bolting into place. (you can just make it out in this picture)
You can see it better on the left of the picture and below is the nut that goes onto when the frame is tightened up using the 10mm bolts you removed before. Note there is a lot of force required to push this frame into position (it feels spring loaded) and it's best to push something in place to hold it while you start the threads on the bolt. Say hello to my big socket that's lending a hand.
Next I had to bolt the hinges to the window frame, I only had to do this as I was swapping the hood over. But hopefully you frame will be pushed up against the cover like this.
Now we can start fitting the seal rails and seals. At the front of the frame you need to cut little holes to pull these plastic nuts through and into the frame.
Now screw down the frames (which are sided) and spray the back of the seal where it slides into the rail with WD40, this will make the seal slide up in seconds.
And should look like this when in place.
Do the same with the rear rails/frames, push the plastic nuts into the hood frame which I find easier than cutting the holes as there would be 10 in total and not easy to get all the positions right. It's easier to push the screws through the material and let the frames clamp it down, like this.
Then with the hood in the halfway position, spray the seal with WD40 again and slide in from the top.
Your cover is fitted and water tight now with only a few things left to do, the rear window for one and the straps and cables to fit which I will show you in the next Part.
There is just enough play in the material to push the staple gun in around the rear window frame when we come to the BIG cut.
Once you get past the second corner of the frame it should just pull the last few inch freely. But the begin is slow going.
Then unlock the hood from the windscreen frame and pull the front of the hood over the edge and push in the corner sewn into to the cover and refit the metal strip making sure it clamps the nylon strip on the cover.
You should now have the cover fully fitted at each end like this.
At this point I lifted my hood frame off my old Mk3 shell and placed it in my Mk3.5 project. Next job is to locate the centre stud in the parcel shelf that the silver frame uses to position itself when bolting into place. (you can just make it out in this picture)
You can see it better on the left of the picture and below is the nut that goes onto when the frame is tightened up using the 10mm bolts you removed before. Note there is a lot of force required to push this frame into position (it feels spring loaded) and it's best to push something in place to hold it while you start the threads on the bolt. Say hello to my big socket that's lending a hand.
Next I had to bolt the hinges to the window frame, I only had to do this as I was swapping the hood over. But hopefully you frame will be pushed up against the cover like this.
Now we can start fitting the seal rails and seals. At the front of the frame you need to cut little holes to pull these plastic nuts through and into the frame.
Now screw down the frames (which are sided) and spray the back of the seal where it slides into the rail with WD40, this will make the seal slide up in seconds.
And should look like this when in place.
Do the same with the rear rails/frames, push the plastic nuts into the hood frame which I find easier than cutting the holes as there would be 10 in total and not easy to get all the positions right. It's easier to push the screws through the material and let the frames clamp it down, like this.
Then with the hood in the halfway position, spray the seal with WD40 again and slide in from the top.
Your cover is fitted and water tight now with only a few things left to do, the rear window for one and the straps and cables to fit which I will show you in the next Part.
There is just enough play in the material to push the staple gun in around the rear window frame when we come to the BIG cut.
